January 5, 2012

Thursday, January 5, 2011

By the time we did some computer work and got ourselves together, it was lunchtime.  Fred was anxious to get his conch sandwich at the Staniel Cay Yacht club.  Off we went and our first stop was “Thunderball Cave” where people snorkel underwater to get into the cave.  Sounds beautiful but...those shark weren’t that far from the cave.  We had lunch, Fred the conch sandwich and I, a hamburger.  It didn’t compare to the hamburger I had at MacDuffs at Norman’s Cay but the atmosphere certainly made it worth the sit.  It was obvious this was a boaters stop.  The ceilings were draped with hundreds of color burgees, colorful table cloths and island music.  I am convinced there are no glass windows here.  There were either bars in the windows, fold down shutters, screens or nothing.  and took a quick walk through town, in case we missed anything.  We didn’t.  My friend Robert Goodreau asked us to look up his good friend there, Wade Dixion.  Everyone knew him but no one knew where he was.  We didn’t connect.  Even the people at one of the bars up the hill knew him and tried to call but no answer.  Sorry Robert...I tried.  Most said he was probably out fishing, the only means of survival I saw in that town.  Fred said everyone must be on siesta, which starts at 8 AM and ends at 5:00 PM.  There was a trace of this island having a teacher there because there were about 5 bikes in front of the small school, which said “Staniel Cay, school for all ages”.  Oh, and they have a nurse on duty until 3:00.  I think the clinic is run by Mary Lou McFadden, an RN from the USA.  By 4:00 we were underway.  Fred pulled up to the one and only gas marina and wanted me to wrap the line around the piling.  It was 8’ tall and the boat was moving.  No dock help yet, even though Fred called ahead.  ‘Island time’ they call it.  No one was in a hurry which I caught some of my impatience surfacing until I lassoed it back in and got on the same time zone.  This is the moment I wished I were a cowgirl, lassoing would have come in handy.  I missed.  Tired again and came inches from falling into the water.  Yes, the same marina/water those sharks were lurking around.  I have no idea how I didn’t end up in the water but it sure did let me know my heart was pumping quite well.  Fred filled the fuel and I filled the water.  We were on our way, both sails up and taking advantage of the strong winds.  We took a short nap and before we knew it, we had to get ready for dinner.  Fred had made reservations for 4 at “Lorraines”, the most popular restaurant on the island.  I quick ran for my glasses to read the menue and Fred said “They don’t have menu’s”.   I took his word on it, remembering that I forget things fast and if all failed, he could choose my dinner.  We dinked to the docks and walked up to “Lorraines”.  Lots of people in there, most of whom we had met in Fraziers Hog.  They were celebrating birthdays including Larry’s from “The Dove” and Carol’s from “Rhapsody” This place is small for such a popular restraunt but they seemed to accommodate the large party and us four as well.  No one ever came to tell us what we would like but I did see a hand written menu on the wall next to the kitchen door.  We finally ordered a diet coke and waited for Dee and Pete.  Fred peeked into what I believed was a huge kitchen just to say hi.  They remembered him.  Soon Lorraine came out and gave Fred a huge hug.  I was expecting her to verbally give us our options of dinner but no...she went back into the kitchen.  A bit later they were parading into the dining area with pots and bowls and platters of food, buffet style.  “Ah Ha” I thought.  I didn’t need my glasses after all.  They slapped the food on two tables with some melamine plates and blessed the food and we ate...alot.  The menu was lobster, grooper, ribs, peas & rice, mac & cheese, broccoli, cauliflower & carrots and potato salad.  The party group had a cake and brought some to our table.  I inhaled it as there is always room for desert!  Lorraine was sitting at a table all by herself and I asked her to join us which she did.  She explained their politics and expressed her love for the Governor General or something like that who was buried in Nassau today.  We don’t get the news but it was clear she was sad about his death saying he did more for them than any governor they have ever had. We stayed a bit longer and talked to Lorraine and promised to come see her again tomorrow to get some of her mother’s bread.  She makes white, wheat, coconut and cinnamon raisin breads.  We ordered a coconut loaf.  The walk back to the dingy was nice, the stars shone brightly, brighter than at home in Wilmington and it dawned on me that perhaps Wilmington was like this 50-60 years ago.  ‘Progress’ I thought.  Someday this place will be booming.  To the locals, it already was.  This island, almost 12 miles long, is the longest cay here in the Exumas with the exception of Great Exuma, in the Exuma chain.  There is a post office but it is only open on Wednesdays.  I saw one church and a small grocery store which is run by the local constable.  I am looking forward to using the laundry mat.  Actually, I am looking forward to using their dryer since I have been having problems getting clothes to dry.  I pulled out a clean t-shirt today and it was STILL damp from last week.  Laundry dryers have moved to the top of my priority list now.  It’s abit cool to wear bathing suits now.  It’s in the 70’s here but that cold front sure does make it cooler.  There was a guy in Lorraine’s this evening with one of those snow caps you wear to cover your ears and ties under your chin with a fuzzy ball on top.  I guess blood really does get thin in warmer climates.  This is truly their winter.  I could have used one of those hats too!  Who would have thought?????